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Squaremeal Review of The Rivoli Bar at The Ritz London ?

Synonymous with luxury, the stately Ritz sails on, immune to the vagaries of fashion. Located off the hotel's blowsy palatial lobby, the extraordinary Rivoli Bar is a 'sophisticated symphony' (their words) of gilded ceiling domes, big leopard-skin print chairs and camphor-wood walls inset with illuminated Lalique glass – an exquisite art-deco jewel box worthy of Coco Chanel. Drinks are no less mesmerising, with wild mushroom-infused whisky, quails' eggs, Himalayan salt, caviar bitters, popcorn essence and fennel air among the more esoteric ingredients deployed in a bold range of £20 cocktails. Expect to shell out for club sandwiches (£30), smoked salmon cornets or princely burgers – and don't expect much change from £1,000 if you order a bottle of Gold Line vodka and 50g of Beluga caviar. Meanwhile, £2 buys a Lotto ticket at any nearby newsagent's.

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