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The mighty spud gets to play a starring role at this enterprising amalgam of a greengrocer’s, farm shop and all-day eatery. Sacks and boxes packed with heritage varieties such as Highland Burgundy
Red and Shetland Black line up alongside the King Edwards, while punters in the down-home rustic dining room can plough through a menu loaded with tuberous possibilities. Naturally there’s potato
soup to start (or you could try black-pudding croquettes), and there are around 10 variations on the theme to go with the likes of lamb stew, duck confit or red gurnard with saffron sauce:
dauphinoise, beef-dripping chips, patatas bravas… take your pick. Spuds also sneak into the desserts: bread-and-butter pud is gilded with the stuff and it’s also the basis for sweet brownies and
lemon drizzle cake. To drink, Biddenden cider and English wines are top of the bill.
The Potato Merchant, London’s first restaurant and grocer specialising in potatoes, has recently opened at Exmouth Market. I had a nice dinner there recently and thought the restaurant would be worth keeping in mind for locals looking for a thoughtful take on the UK’s favourite starchy staple...
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