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Square Meal Review of The Mercer ?

“Service is always attentive and efficient but very unobtrusive”, says one satisfied reader, while another praises the consistently good food at this “old-fashioned, unpretentious workhorse”. The Mercer is every inch the businesslike City dining room, from its refined ambience to its understated, decor – complete with high ceilings, subdued colours and well-spaced, crisply attired tables. The cooking is resolutely British, but not narrowly so. Starters of lemon and rosemary-cured salmon or warm black pudding salad hold plenty of interest, as does the Mercer pie with beef flank, Guinness and (optional) oysters. Daily specials might deliver pan-roasted veal chops with lemon and rosemary, or Lancashire hotpot. Otherwise there are steaks, and (inevitably) fish on Fridays. In-house Enomatic and Verre du Vin systems ensure plenty of wine choice by the glass or carafe; the full list repays careful browsing, containing English bottles alongside Provençal rosés and prestigious large-format Bordeaux for communal deal-sealing.

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