The Island Room at Priory Bay Hotel

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Helicopter-loads of wealthy weekenders attest to the pulling power of this swanky hotel – a magnet for fans of luxurious accommodation and stunning food. The intimate Island Room restaurant is prettily adorned with frescoes depicting the region, while local boy Oliver Stephens eschews gastro-wizardry in favour of a tight focus on ingredients. Just about everything is sourced from the island, and the constantly evolving 12-course ‘blind tasting’ menu reflects Stephens’ time in cutting-edge kitchens including Noma. Tantalising trailers such as ‘raw bass’ give little away, but the results are spectacular: blackened baby onions with rich truffled butter; a limpid rose-pink broth of home-cured ham poured over pungent pickled wild garlic, and the pièce de résistance – a thick, juicy rib of prime beef, finished to smoky perfection on the barbecue. Stephens modestly serves the dishes himself, while childhood buddie James Trevaskis matches them with interesting tipples.

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