The Highwayman

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Square Meal Review of The Highwayman ?

The latest addition to Marco Pierre White’s country restaurant portfolio (which also includes the Yew Tree Inn, Hampshire) is a secluded, rambling & hugely atmospheric inn on the Berkshire/Oxfordshire border that offers seriously good food at realistic prices. The original bar has been converted into a Champagne & oyster bar, while the low ceilings, thick beams & exposed brick that form the historic core of the pub are now a backdrop to an intimate restaurant. The menu delivers good old-fashioned British favourites. Soft roes on toast with a light caper & herb dressing, & potted shrimps in delicious warm butter, served with equally good melba toast, were both winning starters. To follow, a simple but full-of-flavour fish pie came with generous chunks of fish & huge prawns in a herby white sauce & a side of great broccoli hollandaise, while a perfectly executed belly pork with thick honey crust & slithers of crackling was teamed with soft butter beans, delicious pan juices & new potatoes on the side. With sherry trifle ‘Wally Lad’, & a homemade prune & Armagnac ice cream topped with more prunes & Armagnac, this was an enjoyable meal, enhanced by attentive service & a good quality, French-leaning wine list that offered 18 by the glass & bottle for under £20.


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Essential Details for The Highwayman

  • Address: Exlade Street, Unknown RG8 0UA
  • Telephone: 01491 682020
  • Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 12N-2.30pm 6-10.30pm Sun 12N-3.30pm 6-9pm
  • Cuisine: British
  • Area: Berkshire
  • Price: £30.00
  • Wine: £11.95
  • Champagne: £36.00

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