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Tourists who cast aspersions on traditional British food should try The Guinea Grill, insists a loyal regular. A microcosm of vintage Mayfair ringing with claret-fuelled guffaws, it nestles behind
a pub frontage in the clubbiest of rooms, all clustered white-clothed tables in a wood-panelled wrapper. Jacket-&-tie staff, including London’s longest-serving sommelier, play their
ever-smiling parts with almost comical gusto, while a lone chef tends the furiously hot grill behind displays of prime, dry-aged fillets, rib-eyes & rumps from the Scotch Beef Club. The kitchen
also sends out acclaimed suet-crusted pies by the score, as well as more delicate dishes such as pan-fried trout with olive & capers or Caesar salad flecked with roast salmon. For afters, big
helpings of suitably robust sticky toffee pudding or rhubarb crumble may necessitate ‘loose-fitting clothes’.
By the end of the year, when I’m work-knackered and even more crabby than usual, I crave the warm fug of a cosy room, lots of dark wood, tartan carpet and old-fashioned waiters in formal suits. I know, shocking. The Guinea Grill ticks all those boxes. It’s a restaurant that screams OLD CHAP. They use silver-plate vegetable dishes, you know the ones, oval and slightly scratched and the vegetables are served by the waiters. So are the younger guests. I think I heard the word “madam”. I noticed two slightly older men sporting fine syrups. Never an improvement, whatever the wigmaker tells you.The Guinea Grill...
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The Boardroom – an atmospheric, pine-panelled room on the first floor of the restaurant – is ideal for business lunches, meetings, and client entertaining, plus informal celebrations and intimate weddings. It can seat 22 at one oval table, or 28 at three tables.
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