Sorry, but your web browser is too old to display this page properly.
Please update it to the latest version or switch to a more modern browser,
Google Chrome or
Internet Explorer 11 (they're all free).
Even policy wonks & modern-day Machiavellis have to eat, & hungry lefties have a home-from-home in the Gay Hussar, whose long, narrow, panelled dining room is hung with the Martin Rowson
caricatures to prove it. New Labour may be dead, but old Soho lives on here, in hefty portions of Hungarian dumplings, goulash & schnitzel. Chilled wild-cherry soup adds a touch of refinement
to the ‘reassuringly expensive’ menu, with goose & pork pâté or smoked Hungarian sausage for stouter appetites. To follow, smoked goose breast with red cabbage & sólet (a variant of
cassoulet) is good & straightforward, while stuffed cabbage or fish dumplings are doughty platefuls – & that’s before you’ve added sides or contemplated strudel or dobos torta. Hungarian
wines, such as medium-dry Tokaji Muscat Blanc, are well worth trying. The restaurant is currently being sold, but it remains to be seen whether the new owners will change anything about this
winning formula when they take over in early 2014. Watch this space.
“We had that Hugh Grant in here once, upstairs, private party. They had 19 bottles of this wine. Not a lot, between the 17 of them but I had to taste them all”. “Oh, I say politely, that’s quite a lot, how did you manage?”” I came downstairs, had a Jack Daniels chaser and went off on my way. That, after the wine, well, it woke me up”.He gives us a lively demonstration of the effects of the chaser.This is my initiation into the legend that is The Gay Hussar, a restaurant specialising in traditional Hungarian food as well as time travel, taking you back to the 1970s, back to the Soho of old, back to...
More from The Food Judge »
Are you the restaurant owner?
Click here for Links & Logos
Are you making a general enquiry or enquirying about private rooms?
If you want expert advice on the best private rooms and their availability use our free Square Meal Concierge service and earn extra Square Meal Rewards points with every booking.
You are making an enquiry at
The Gay Hussar
By clicking 'SEND' you agree to the Square Meal User Agreement
Please wait while we are sending your e-mail ...