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MasterChef alumnus Adam Handling has moved on from his hotel-restaurant digs, landing in east London with concrete floors and a £45 tasting menu. If that sounds a touch cool-for-school, the food is where the fancy comes in. Prepare with a dill Frog G&T then dive into a string of artfully arranged ‘snacks’ (a refreshing bite of crab and apple, perhaps) before a dreamy pause of warm, tart sourdough and whipped chicken butter topped with crisp skin. ‘Dinners’ follow – think moist chunks of piglet with onions, sherry and basil. Luckily, ‘beetroot, beetroot and more beetroot’ is next, once a starter, now wisely a pre-dessert: a jammy, vividly pink roll of flavour hovering between savoury and sweet. Try burnt honey with malt ice cream and lemon to finish (the toffee texture inside the nitro tiramisu was an indulgence too far for us). Dishes are presented straightforwardly by knowledgeable staff, who also deliver well-paired wines and craft beers. While some diners will prefer white linen to blackboards and bare light bulbs, plenty leap to The Frog judging by the buzz on our visit.
A highly accomplished chef, Adam Handling brings his love of Asian flavours and techniques – particularly Japanese – to his kitchen. His beautifully presented dishes start with careful sourcing of top quality, seasonal ingredients, prepared in a number of different, creative ways to enhance their inherent properties and deliver real depth of flavour and harmony.
With dishes such as ‘Crab Doughnuts’, to ‘Beetroot, Beetroot and More Beetroot’, diners can expect to be both surprised and wowed by the ingenuity of cooking techniques and flavour combinations on offer at The Frog. With innovation at the core of Adam’s cooking, he and his team have also developed a drinks offering to match. Guests can expect to sip on craft beers from selected micro-breweries, new age wines from young winemakers, curated cocktails and even in-house made kombucha, either at the restaurant tables or at the wooden-topped bar.
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