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True to its name, this buzzy and recently refurbished basement bistro sets out to showcase the best of the Scotland’s regional larder, with seasonal pickings and prime stuff from the nation’s
artisan ‘food heroes’ topped up by provisions from the owners’ deli/café on Blackfriars Street. The menu changes constantly and there’s always something to surprise those with inquisitive palates:
crab and tomato terrine is enlivened with a salad of sea purslane, while a dish of scallops and ham ‘hough’ (hock) comes dressed with nettles. Main courses also make the most of humble ingredients,
from beef cheek to smoked pollock, and there’s an eclectic approach when it comes to desserts – think green-tea set cream flavoured with salted seaweed or chocolate fondant with beetroot granita
and carrot ice cream. The drinks list is equally patriotic, ranging from unusual malt whiskies to Scottish-brewed beers.
Having spent most of the week in a London-sized hangover, I was constantly telling friends that I had grown bored of Edinburgh and sought pastures new. Maybe I had just become used to the spoils this wonderful little city offers … I am a (self-proclaimed) capital culinary ambassador after all, and tonight would see us indulge on an appetising chateaubriand deal on offer at The Bonham, where we were yet to visit.Seated next to the bay window toward the front of the hotel, I was initially a little sceptical about our table placement given that the back end of the dining room was buzzing, in contrast...
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