The Devonshire Arms

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Square Meal Review of The Devonshire Arms ?

A temporary casualty of Gordon Ramsay’s gastropub implosion, the Devonshire has re-emerged after a yearlong hiatus with Nick Gibson (one half of the team behind Islington’s Drapers Arms) at the helm. Now called the Devonshire Arms, you can’t miss its minty green coat & handsome Victorian face on a quiet residential backstreet. Inside, it emanates tasteful austerity with dark wood, deep olive panelling & English-pastoral wallpaper. The British menu is as expected: seasonal, refined gastropub grub with a homespun feel, beginning with crunchy Devon crab cakes & tomato saffron sauce or duck terrine sprinkled with cranberries. Mains might range from velvety artichoke & girolle risotto to a slightly unusual veal & parsnip pie, while afters keep it comfortable with Bakewell tart or Eton mess. This classy outfit also woos locals with its house ales & sizeable wine list – especially when fine weather calls for refreshments on the decked alfresco area.


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