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There were cries of dismay when the Crown at Whitebrook closed down in 2013, but this enviable restaurant-with-rooms in a straggly Welsh village has started a very promising new chapter in the hands of former Raymond Blanc protégé Chris Harrod. The restaurant has been extensively re-styled, creating a more informal lounge and a fresh, wood-floored dining area with modern artwork on pale walls. Meanwhile Harrod acquits himself admirably, bringing his own distinctive, limpid style to proceedings. Local asparagus with hogweed, pine and Tintern mead exemplifies his classy take on the hedgerow, while Huntsham Farm suckling pig appears with pine nut purée, violet artichokes, hop shoots and wild onion. Foraging also plays its part in desserts such as Wye valley strawberries with woodland sorrel, oats and caramelised onions. An illustrious international wine list is the icing on the cake, and the accommodation is an absolute dream.
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