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A former tearoom in a village not far from Ramsgate has been knocked through to provide a pleasant bar and a couple of rustic dining rooms offering glimpses into the kitchen. With bedrooms above, the result is a laid-back retreat where regulars and first-timers can soothe their souls with simple food, local ales and easy-drinking wines. The kitchen works hard and sources the finest seasonal ingredients with admirable zeal, although it never over-stretches itself – witness ham hock terrine with piccalilli or crab and avocado salad followed by generous boards of flat iron steak with triple-cooked chips or sharing platters of lamb shoulder with dauphinoise potatoes and ratatouille. Full flavours get the thumbs-up, while impressive Kentish cheeses and classic puds of the Eton mess/trifle variety fill any gaps. Otherwise, the bar menu is tailor-made for an inexpensive lunchtime drop-in.
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