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Occupying what was the Grosvenor’s rather gloomy hotel bar, this pleasant if unremarkable brasserie offers a sober, clubby mix of dark-wood wall panels and shiny maroon Chesterfields lifted by some
bright paintings of chilled-out commuters – a nod to the building’s original status as one of the great railway hotels. The menu meets basic requirements with a range of steaks and salads, plus
moules marinière, braised lamb shank and coq au vin, although upmarket ideas such as monkfish medallions on saffron-and-crab mash with a Parma ham and apple confit hint at ambitious tendencies in
the kitchen. Finish in party mood with an ice cream sundae, otherwise retire to the sedate lounge next door for a digestif. Fixed-price daytime deals come in at £16.95/20.95 for two/three courses,
although house wine breaks the £20 barrier.
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