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With its bar full of slick hairdos and expensive handbags, The Botanist has become the roistering hub of 21st-century Sloane Square. However, fight your way through the bubbly-quaffing crowds and you'll find an elegantly upholstered, art deco-inspired dining room that offers much more tranquillity, complete with Victorian botanical prints and windows opening onto the street. Patriotic ingredients inspire a modern Anglo-European menu, with much emphasis on seasonal specialities – gull's eggs, asparagus and so on. Our venison carpaccio was meltingly tender and judiciously sprinkled with blackberries and hazelnut shavings, yet a tranche of sea trout, served with lobster ravioli, was noticeably overcooked – we'd expect better from a £25 dish. A towering knickerbocker glory with poached peaches and strawberry ice cream is the pick of the puds, global wines offer good drinking at every price point, and delightful service seals the deal.
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