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Sushi master Mitsuhiro Araki took a gamble when he moved his three-Michelin-starred gaff from Ginza to Mayfair in 2014, but it's paid off handsomely. The Araki is a "tiny slice of Tokyo in London", an "effortlessly simple" space dominated by a perfectly smooth cypress-wood counter overseen by the man himself. Of course, such rarefied class comes at a price: bookings are limited to nine covers twice nightly, and it's £300 a head for the omakase menu. Traditional Edo-style sushi is the speciality, and Mr Araki is known for his "utterly fresh, utterly perfect" tuna: we adore the boldly seasoned, truffle-laced tartare, while readers drool over a fascinating procession of nigiri from "the darkest maguro to the most melting o-toro". Other delicacies such as limpid red snapper and seaweed broth are equally astonishing. Dishes are exquisitely served on antique and bespoke ceramics, while saké comes in similarly covetable glassware. Our advice: do what's necessary to experience this totally absorbing show from "one of the greatest living proponents of high-art sushi".
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