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It’s not just for wintertime, but old-timer St Moritz sure does warm the cockles, with its accordion music, little wooden chairs & actual beef stroganoff. Its ‘twee’ appeal & cauldrons of
attractively priced fondues make it ‘a great place for a get-together with friends’, though its popularity means service can fray at busy times. Try to get a table upstairs, & make the most of
the Swiss wine list: to go with any of the five kinds of bubbling cheesy stuff, there’s Fendant de Sion at £16.10 (£9.65 a carafe); if you like Riesling, try the Heida du Valais (£30.65). Bratwurst
with rösti is popular at lunchtime, & expats come for slices of veal lathered with cream & mushroom zurichoise sauce. To round things off, chocolate fondue is always a good idea.
Fondue: say the word and immediately images of rich, thick, booze-spiked cheese spring to mind, simmering away in rustic cast iron pans over paraffin Picture at St. Moritzburners, dipped into by diners still wrapped in their woollens as the snow falls in thick flurries over the slopes outside. It’s quite the cliché, but if you can’t make the trip to the Alps, don’t worry – St. Moritz conjures up the ski resort atmosphere right in the heart of Soho. Stepping through the door into the small dining room on bustling Wardour Street is like stepping into an alpine lodge movie set – the roughly whitewashed walls are hung...
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Tasting cheese fondue was something I longed to do, when I was over Switzerland. “You get drunk from it” my cousin exclaimed to the late teen me. Those words has been stuck in my head ever since. Several years have passed and I finally tracked down once place in London, which specialises cheese fondue. St Moritz has been established since 1974, located in the heart of Soho. I have gathered my two other food buddies along with me to try out the fondue...
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