What was The Luxe has been transformed into an offshoot of City stalwart Smiths of Smithfield – although the hallmarks of its clubby predecessor remain: a buzzy ground-floor café/bar, a more serious dining room upstairs, and a drinking den in the basement. Meat plays a starring role in the main restaurant, which is decked out in the now-familiar steakhouse garb – think brick walls and dark-wood furniture. There’s no denying the quality, either – a slow-braised short rib of beef slides effortlessly off the bone, while perfectly grilled lamb is perked up with aubergine ‘caviar’ and rainbow chard. Starters of ‘lucky’ squid with Chinese broccoli, and salt-cod fritters with parsley and lemon mayo, however, seem rather meagre given the price, but things perk up again on the drinks list, with some notable wine producers alongside refreshing bottled beers and cocktails.