Searcys Champagne Bar at One New Change

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With iconic buildings such as L’Institut du Monde Arabe to his credit, architect Jean Nouvel has designed this streamlined temple to Mammon in the shadow of St Paul’s – although Searcy’s latest roll-out is aimed squarely at Loewe wallets with a serious Champagne & shopping habit. A fabulous fizz list proposes 30 by the flute & has nutty Le Marquis de Marillac (£8.50) as its cornerstone, before zipping upwards through the most recognised marques (including small houses such as François Diligent) towards the giddy heights of tip-top drawer bubbles such as Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle (£22.50 a glass). Cocktails run from strawberry bellini to Buck’s fizz, beer drinkers can worship Kasteel Cru Rosé from Alsace, & there are token wines from £4 a go. Breakfast brings smoked salmon & cream-cheese bagels as well as viennoiserie; lunch promises seafood, cheese & charcuterie platters, & afternoon tea isn’t complete without bonbons.

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