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When I think of Scotts, I immediately think of two people. One is Nigella, who, if the Daily Fail sidebar of shame is to be believed, practically lives here with her husband, “multimillionaire advertising tycoon” Charles Saatchi. The other is Richard Caring, who also happens to own, on the same road, the Mount Street Deli and the private members’ club, George. I’ve been to both. Obviously...
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Scott’s is owned by Caprice Holdings (who own Le Caprice, 34, J Sheekey and The Ivy to name but a few) and is as beautifully kitted out inside as its sister restaurants. It has a doorman, a cloakroom lady, hundreds of waiters – this place clearly doesn’t scrimp on staff. Rarely do I leave a...
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And then there is the ramasse-miettes: I love the scrape of the metal across the tablecloth sweeping away evidence of earlier greed, heralding a new course winging its way across from the kitchens, and reassuring one that the meal isn’t over yet. I love, too, the re-laying of the tablecloth – a delicate procedure, in which the fresh tablecloth, crackling with starch, is laid across the table while the old cloth is simultaneously peeled back without allowing a crude sliver of the denuded table to be seen – comparable in some ways to a very discreet changing of a baby’s nappy.There is no such pleasure in...
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