Rowley's, London 1

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Squaremeal Review of Rowley's, London ?

Rowley’s is just the ticket for heritage-hungry tourists and St James’s suited-and-booted legions who prefer their grub resolutely simple – a slice of good old tradition, culinary clichés and all. That said, the owners have responded to the changing needs of this regenerated part of town by tweaking their offer, shortening the menu and offering food all day. House specialties such as “perfect” char-grilled entrecôte steak (served at table from a heated pan) are accompanied by unlimited French fries and Rowley’s special Roquefort butter sauce (available to take away), while the remainder of the line-up is old school to the core – from smoked salmon fishcakes or crayfish cocktail to bread-and-butter pudding or tarte Tatin. The interior mixes a beautiful painted ceiling, gilt-framed mirrors and original tiling with nods to the building’s previous incarnation as the original Wall’s sausage shop.

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WINE LIST OF THE YEAR

A great list for this venue: compact, clear and well priced. There are plenty of regions and grapes that the wine novice would recognise, but there’s also some interesting stuff for the cognoscenti to get their teeth into: Grüner Veltliner, Italian Pinot Nero, Slovenian Pinot Gris, and English fizz. Even better, the majority of the wines are under £25.

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