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Square Meal Review of Rita's ?

Rita’s in Hackney tells you everything you should know about the east London hipster food scene – but don’t let that put you off. The place is “buzzing”. This credible one-time pop-up, named after its signature drink (the frozen ’rita), is as popular with food-lovers as with fashion victims. Its fried chicken is by now legendary, as is its green chilli mac & cheese and patty melt deluxe (a greasy burger-toastie hybrid, best enjoyed when hungover). The spartan diner is not only about ‘dirty’ food, however; there’s a trendy touch of new Southern ‘lardcore’ in such sweet-savoury combos as dulce de leche beignets with foie gras and peanut bacon brittle, while Asian influences creep into BBQ short rib, roast corn and edamame succotash and mackerel kushiyaki. To drink, expertly crafted cocktails such as the Sriracha Mary and boozy Vietnamese iced coffee explore similar territory. Only occasional slow service mars the fun.


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