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Currently sitting pretty within the confines of a grandly restored Grade II-listed building in historic Leamington Spa, chef/patron Peter Knibb’s civilised dining room cossets diners with a showpiece wine display, soothing colours and eye-catching circular lampshades dangling from an intricately embossed ceiling. It’s a suitably flash setting for forward-thinking, Euro-accented food that knows how to impress: roast quail is served with Jerusalem artichoke, nashi pear, truffle and chestnut, while pan-fried brill might be accompanied by leek and crab raviolini, salt-baked celeriac and truffle beurre blanc. Dry-aged beef fillet with triple-cooked chips and béarnaise sauce keeps the die-hards happy, while desserts often have some fun with the classics – think Cox’s apple terrine with brioche and orange, spiced pannacotta, apple gel and green apple sorbet. Alternatively, you can head upstairs to Morgan’s Bar for cocktails and snacks.
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