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Square Meal Review of Portobello Star ?

Despite being frequented by ‘royals, scallywags, scarlet ladies, drunkards and the occasional footballer’ (according to the blurb), liquor baron Jake Burger’s gig is a star turn. Upstairs is ‘London’s second smallest museum’, where you can also custom-brew your own tipple in the ‘Ginstitute’s’ working still. This is the spiritual home of Portobello Road No 171 – a splendidly rewarding, finely balanced, London dry gin that can be sampled in the Queen Mother’s Cocktail (with Dubonnet, Aperol and a splash of Myers’s rum) or Sky Juice (with condensed milk, coconut water, whipped cream and spices). More ‘blokey’ swigs might include Ginger Man (a mule involving Yorkshire Tea, Jameson Irish whiskey, ginger beer and lemon), while the Star’s bites run to Moroccan mutton meatballs, homemade pies, mackerel pâté, Portobello ploughman’s and ‘shepherd’s Puy’ (a lentil bake).


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