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Square Meal Review of Plumed Horse ?

Safely stabled within the gritty environs of Leith’s waterside development, chef/proprietor Tony Borthwick’s hugely appealing Plumed Horse wins friends with its personal, “unstuffy” feel andquietly chic decor (think light contemporary tones and shades of green in the conjoined dining rooms). The kitchen deals in strong, clear flavours, absorbing lots of different themes in its search for impact: how about a “truly original” dish of roast monkfish wrapped in bacon with smoked eel, white bean cassoulet, parsley and truffle sauce or a pairing of veal kidney and Black Forest ham with sautéed scallop, shallot purée, salsify artichoke and sauce diable. To start, perhaps try wood pigeon carpaccio with pickled vegetables, smoked apple and black radish; for dessert, consider gingerbread parfait with forced rhubarb and mulled wine purée. Brilliant service isn’t out to “squeeze every last penny from the customers”, applauds a fan.


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Essential Details for Plumed Horse

  • Address: 50-54 Henderson Street, Leith, Edinburgh EH6 6DE
  • Telephone: 0131 554 5556
  • Website:
  • Opening Hours: Tues-Sat 12N-2.30pm 7-9pm

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