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If you think Mexican food is mouth-searingly hot, cheap and messy, you’ll be surprised by Peyotito – proponent of the cuisine’s haute-couture version currently popular in smart areas of Mexico City. The talent here is Eduardo Garcia, whose Máximo Bistrot is among Latin America’s best restaurants. The industrial-chic interior has exposed brickwork and a concrete bar, its narrow frontage opening into a larger space with lush foliage and glassed-in roof. DJ decks stoke up weekend parties and there’s a semi-private dining room downstairs. The place already rocks with a confident, opulent crowd. Start with Margaritas, the salty rim enhanced by chilli and accompanied by a small bottle of mescal. There’s also a short, well-priced wine list. The menu is short too and food comes in elegant sharing portions. Ceviches include the sensational blanco scallops with chilli, tomato and coconut. Crisp sea bream fillets arrive with bright slicks of salsa verde, fragrant but not overwhelming, and there are neat tacos holding lamb slow-braised to delicious richness. Charred baby chicken is enhanced by a complex sauce with hints of coffee, sesame, chilli and chocolate. To finish, desserts such as mascarpone cheesecake with cactus-fig compote are more familiar – a rarity at this singular establishment.
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