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Square Meal Review of Paris House ?

Paris House was transported, timber by timber, from the French capital to grace Woburn Park more than a century ago, and now sits resplendent – a genteel oasis overlooking lush green acres and grazing muntjacs. Following a shake-up, chef Phil Fanning and his wife now own and run the place, but little has changed as regards the restaurant or its Michelin-starred food. The dining room oozes civilised class without pomposity (thanks to some kooky artwork and crazy red chandeliers), while the kitchen works its masterstrokes across a series of tasting menus (including one dedicated to Bedfordshire produce). It’s a fascinating hotchpotch of contemporary European themes, trad British parodies and leftfield riffs – from ‘MK17 snail garden’ (gastropods with chicory, onion and local herbs) to rhubarb with ginger and custard via pan-fried hake with squid ‘noodles’, gnocchi and herb emulsion or featherblade and cheek of Ibérico piglet with honey, mustard and cauliflower cheese. Serious wines at serious prices too.

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