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There’s no stopping seafood superstar Nathan Outlaw at the moment: his flagship at the St Enodoc Hotel, Rock now sports two
Michelin stars, his London venture Outlaw’s at The Capital is a metropolitan winner, and he has just launched this cut-price,
easy-going eatery in photogenic Port Isaac (familiar to fans of TV’s Doc Martin). Outlaw’s sidekick Paul Ripley heads up the kitchen, and the casual menu is devoted to sharing plates based
on seafood from the inshore boats. Come here for fish burgers with herb mayo, roasted scallops in the shell with seaweed butter, crab on toast or crispy oysters with pickled vegetables – plus
blackboard specials such as John Dory with tomatoes and green sauce. After that, some goats’ cheese with beetroot and walnut bread or lime posset with strawberries should suffice. Cornish beers,
cider and around 20 wines offer thirst-quenching satisfaction.
I’ve not had much luck with Nathan Outlaw’s restaurants: even though I really want to love them, apart from an incredible meal at his two star eponymous restaurant in Cornwall, they never quite deliver. Outlaw’s at the Capital played it far too safe and Mariners at Rock was just a bit weird.Outside Michelin-starred Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen is based in picturesque Port Isaac, which you might recognise as the home of ITV’s Doc Martin. It’s a charmingly quaint restaurant (with the world’s smallest toilet) but the six of us felt awfully squished on our tiny table. My gentleman companion and I were seated...
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