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Occupying the first floor of the Hotel Missoni (but entirely separate), Ondine is a clean-lined, contemporary space with a crustacean bar holding centre stage, plus a jazzy helping of baroque
fabrics and jaunty art. Lunch could start with brown crab soup and a crispy crab cake, followed by a chunky mackerel curry with shahi rice and raita, with butterscotch pudding for afters. At
dinner, there’s some more flashy stuff such as roast monkfish with tomato, chorizo and chickpea stew, plus big shellfish platters and some meaty options including fillet of Orkney beef with roasted
bone marrow. Veggies also get a look-in, and the fish-friendly wine list includes plenty by the glass. Chef/proprietor Roy Brett learned his trade with seafood guru Rick Stein, and is hot on
ethical cooking – Ondine is accredited by the Marine Stewardship Council for its sustainable sourcing.
Today for lunch I walked up the steps of the mound and looked for the almost hidden Ondine Restaurant that hovers over Pizza Express on George the IV Bridge. The glass entrance and the steps ascending to the sleek black and white dining room made me all too aware that I was dressed for the wrong party.Regardless, I took my seat across from a smug looking B, who had just returned from his jaunt to Istanbul where he ate too much meat and just managed to beat the snow into and out of Turkey (a feat of which is down to the Polartross, no doubt...
More from Lunchquest Edinburgh »
I first visited Ondine shortly after chef-patron Roy Brett launched it six years ago. The food and service were so memorable that I vowed to return. I recently had the opportunity to have my birthday meal at this luxurious seafood restaurant in Edinburgh and it was as wonderful as I remembered… even better, if that’s at all possible.
More from One Two Culinary Stew »
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