Originally opened as a tiny sliver of a café near the ‘shelter in the middle of a roundabout’ immortalised by The Beatles in Penny Lane, Neon Jamón is wowing 21st-century Liverpudlians with its grander Berry Street offshoot – although it’s lost none of the Catalan appeal that once had punters queuing for tables. You can book these days, but it’s still “faultless” and “the attention to detail is fantastic”, according to one admirer.
The menu, meanwhile, is full of good things: succulent albondigas in a spicy tomato sauce; pan-fried hake with mussels, chorizo and samphire; plump little Iberico ham croquetas; char-grilled paprika-marinated pork pinxtos with red pepper sauce.
And you could make an entire meal from the artisan cheese and charcuterie: firm cows’ milk Mahon with acorn-fed lomo, or tangy Picos blue cheese with the salami-like salchichon.
Vegetarians get truffled whipped goats’ cheese, wild mushroom tostadas, Manchego and spinach croquetas and aubergine fritters, as well as classics of the patatas bravas and tortilla ilk, while there are nibbles of Padron peppers, toasted broad beans and pan con tomate (with or without serrano ham). To finish, there are classic desserts ranging from crema catalana to hot churros with chocolate sauce.
Food, though, is only half the story. Neon bills itself as ‘tapas/cava/bar’ and you’ll find a wine list with bottles from Spain’s most famous grape-growing regions, sparkling cava DO and sherries by the glass that could see you through the whole meal. Start with bone-dry fino as an aperitif before working your way through medium-dry amontillado, rich and full-bodied palo cortado then a glass of sweet pedro ximénez to finish. Just ask the “superb sommelier” for advice.
Also note the cracking weekday lunch deals (two plates for £9) while groups of four or more can order a £22 set menu with all of the menu’s greatest hits.