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Surely among the most genteel Italian eateries in London, Angela Hartnett's flagship may lack drama but wins fans with its up-tempo Michelin-starred cooking. The room has a top-end finish, with splashes of colour from modern artworks and chandeliers fashioned from little pieces of Murano glass; a "hushed ambience" prevails as sleek staff attend to business "without being too intrusive". Hartnett's food has a "wow factor"
that sits well in such surroundings, and there's much to recommend: red mullet with pickled cauliflower and squid ink leaves a contemporary impression, the crab risotto is "amazing", and macaroni with sweetbreads stars in the pasta department. Elsewhere, try Parmesan gnocchi with trompettes and walnut pesto, while lamb short saddle with smoked potato purée and golden raisins is a sharer you'll want to keep to yourself. To finish, we insist on the caramelised Amalfi lemon tart. With a global wine list tilted towards the Italian regions, Murano is "the perfect special-occasion restaurant".
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