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A respite from the rowdy scene elsewhere, Moya’s sophisticated mix of quality cocktails and hearty Slovakian cooking attract a more discerning class of drinker. Martini fans have a lot of choice,
including ‘breakfast’ (gin, Cointreau and marmalade) and Turkish delight (rose vodka shaken with cherry brandy and cranberry) as well as the classic mix – here made with Tanqueray and a suggestion
of vermouth. Prices stay below £6 a shot, although those wanting to invest more should opt for something involving Champagne, where an extra £1.25 commands a generously poured grand mimosa or
Russian spring punch. Stocky staples of roasted pork shank with cabbage and beer sauce or smoked sausage on beans and bacon may not read like cocktail cooking, but they do a terrific job of soaking
up the booze. Service is unfailingly friendly.
So this week I tried something a little different, the 'wholesome Slovak home cooking' of Moya.Moya's website claims that the restaurant is proving that the Central European food is much more than the Cold War-esque stereotype of 'boiled cabbage and stodge'. At first I wasn't quite sure this was going to be the case - a glance at the menu reveals hearty Mitteleuropean ingredients like rye bread, sauerkraut, goulash and so on - but soon it was clear their boast is true. The cooking at Moya is creative and delicious, treating these potentially heavy flavours with a light touch...
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