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The glowing reviews just keep on coming for Sam and Samantha Clark's Exmouth Market headliner, which celebrates its 20th birthday in 2016. But what exactly is it about Moro that inspires such devotion? Well, it's "the whole package", apparently. To start, the food is authentic but unpredictable, which means that cod's head soup belongs at the table with a salad of pickled chanterelles, feta and buckwheat or wood-roasted lemon sole and cuttlefish with preserved lemon sauce and chermoula. One reader nails it when he says that the chefs have "a great understanding of spice, seasoning and complementary flavours". By contrast, there are few surprises on the dessert menu, where the ever-popular yoghurt cake and Malaga raisin ice cream are mainstays. Service is no-nonsense but thoughtful, and the whole place is alive with the sound of happy people eating and drinking with gusto (the Iberian wines and sherries are "perfect"). "Everything is wonderful, just go there", raves one reader. Amen to that.
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