Michael Caines at ABode Manchester

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An example of a big-name chef project that really works, Michael Caines at ABode combines diffusion versions of the great man’s dishes with the input of head chef Mark Rossi. Late of the Canterbury hotel & with a background which includes work for Nico Ladenis, the Rouxs & Philip Howard as well as Gidleigh Park, Rossi has the skill set to deliver the refined flavours & textures & seasonal flourishes that characterise Caines’ style. The below-stairs dining room divides opinion, with as many fans of the sleek, low-key chocolate-coloured scheme as there are complaints about the creaky floor & lack of light. Everyone’s agreed that the grazing menu – featuring tasting sizes of dishes such as veal sweetbreads with an almond crust, poached quail’s egg & sauce gribiche or a marinated tuna tartare – is a great way to explore, & at lunchtimes three dishes are impressively priced at £13.50. Wine-matching from a strong list is taken seriously, & the wine team has a slight edge over the rest of service.

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Michael Caines

Michael Caines at abode manchester april 2 Michael Caines MBE celebrated two decades at Devon’s two-Michelin-starred Gidleigh Park in 2014 – a remarkable achievement, given that he lost his right arm in a car accident shortly after starting there.  In 2000, he teamed up with Andrew Brownsword to open the ABode hotel group and his self-named restaurants can be found in Exeter, Chester and Manchester. Caines credits French masters Raymond Blanc and the late Bernard Loiseau as his great teachers.

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