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There's no mistaking the hand of veteran restaurateur Terence Conran in this "grand and spacious" deco-esque rendezvous within the former Reuters HQ. Named after the building's architect, Lutyens borders on gastrodome territory with its breakfast-to-midnight offer of a restaurant, wine bar and bistro, cocktail bar, terrace, members' club and private rooms – all aimed at a target audience of City bankers and barristers. Swedish chef Henrik Ritzen cooks modern European food with some trendy Scandinavian touches just above the radar: "juicy and satisfying" warm smoked eel with green apple, fermented cucumber and horseradish or cod with cockles, crosnes (Chinese artichokes), smoked tomato and lovage prove the point. Otherwise, foie gras terrine, Dover sole and steak tartare (from the 'raw bar') display classic brasserie lineage. The business lunch menu features plenty of good things from the carte, while the fascinating global wine list hosts some tempting bottles – although prices can sting.
Proof that small needn’t mean boring, this A3-sized wine bar list mixes the fascinating with the high-quality tried-and-tested for its City clientele. From Croatian Malvazijas to Godello, and Mondeuse to Aglianico, there’s barely a boring wine on the 40-bin list, 90% of which are available by the glass – and the pricing is hearteningly fair. Great beer selection, too.
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