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Nestled among the designer outlet stores of Hackney’s Morning Lane is Legs, a tiny bistro specialising in natural and low-sulphur wines and modern European cuisine. The short, daily-changing menu features nibbles and slightly larger plates. A bowl of silken bagna cauda arrives with crunchy purple endive leaves sticking out of it like spoons. Fall-apart braised beef comes au jus with crunchy ribbons of fennel sitting atop it; flaky, pearlescent chunks of turbot are dressed in olive oil and tarragon with hunks of juicy oxheart tomatoes – simple and delicious. The two-page wine list focuses on France and Italy, with a few additions from Australia, and this being natural wine, some come from the funkier side of the taste spectrum. The one issue with Legs is the heat on a warm summer’s day – with a large glass front, small space, open kitchen and no A/C to speak of, it can end up hotter than the sun, so bring a fan.
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