L'Amorosa 1

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Squaremeal Review of L'Amorosa ?

This new Italian has caught everyone’s attention because its chef/owner, Andy Needham, ran Zafferano’s kitchen for years. Furnishings, apart from some groovy wallpaper, are utilitarian, with plain wood tables and cream walls; and the location is out of the way for most restaurant habitués; but Needham’s cooking demands attention. Here, he cooks Italian comfort food for the neighbourhood, and he’s helped by charming staff. Some food is very good: a well-balanced starter of burrata with aubergine caponata; a slim slice of crunchy roast cod atop chickpeas, set off with punchy salsa verde; and wonderfully creamy and soft tiramisu. Other dishes need more refinement: a salad of beetroot, spinach and hazelnut vinaigrette was simply the sum of its parts. But it’s early days – and the locals are looking happy.

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