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As chef/patron of cheery blue-fronted L’Escargot Bleu, Fred Berkmiller is immensely proud of his French heritage – in fact, you can almost imagine him cycling down the Royal Mile draped in a string
of onions and whistling Le Marseillaise. Everything about this long-standing bistro is authentically Gallic – from the copper pans glittering on the wall to the vintage poster of Edith Piaf
in the front parlour. Tartiflette and snails en croûte are fixtures, as are mains of coq au vin and whole rib of beef carved at the table. Elsewhere, the kitchen blends French produce with the best
of the Scottish larder in, say, pike quenelles with lobster sauce, sea bass fillet with a vermouth reduction and Muscat grapes or confit duck with Puy lentils and wild mushrooms. Cheeses come from
legendary Hervé Mons and the wine list is totally patriotic too.
Given the praise we’ve subsequently heaped upon sister restaurant L’Escargot Blanc, I think chef Fred Berkmiller has just about forgiven us, at least enough to have come along and contributed to Scran Salon, earlier this year.Anyhoo, we’re starting to haphazardly re-visit some of our early quests to see how places are getting on and whether we need to update our verdict. I’m delighted to report that in the case of L’Escargot Bleu we most assuredly do...
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