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DUE TO CLOSE AT THE END OF 2016
French master Pierre Koffmann is still at the top of his game, and lovers of “grande cuisine” are thrilled by this cheery, split-level dining room with its pastel shades, smart trappings and a riot of sunny flowers straight out of a Van Gogh canvas. “It may lack razzmatazz”, but compensates with an “incredibly friendly” vibe and quiet professionalism – not to mention a serious all-French wine list and a roll call of “punchy” flavours from M. Koffmann’s back catalogue. Specials change daily, but look to the main menu for near-faultless signature dishes: chicory adds some earthy, bitter accents to hot crusted foie gras, daube of ox cheek is braised to melting softness, and the legendary pied de cochon appears in all its sticky glory – slow-cooked, boned and stuffed with sweetbreads and morels. After that, puds such as tarte au citron and dark chocolate mousse have their heart in the 80s, but no one minds a jot.
With a new year, time to try something I had been hearing about for a long time. No, it’s not what you are thinking. It’s a new restaurant!Koffman’s, a restaurant so well known (at least within my circle of friends) to be termed an institution, suddenly seemed to pop up in my inbox offering a special pre-threatre dinner for only GBP28 for 3 courses. A steal I thought if reminiscence of other diners was anything to go by. A little new year’s present to me.First up, an amuse bouche. A thin pizza bread...
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