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"All mirrors, glass and twinkles", says a diner, and beautiful art-deco Kaspar's certainly has a touch of Savoy glamour with its sleek marble floors, silver-leaf ceiling and handsome central seafood bar. Escoffier once manned the stoves here, but fancy French cooking has made way for a dependable roster of old-school seafood ranging from lobster bisque and fish pie to fruits de mer, oysters, caviar and platters of smoked and cured delicacies. Try the grilled Dover sole smothered in brown butter, or sea bass ceviche with seared octopus, mango and cucumber jelly. Steaks, chicken and wiener schnitzel are also on offer, beside a traditional line-up of wines. Presentation can be fussy, but the cooking hits the mark, as does the service. Don't forget to look out for Kaspar himself: a cat sculpture commissioned in 1926 to join unlucky tables of 13 diners.
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