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It may look like a Gstaad chalet transported into the middle of St James’s Park, surrounded by a cohort of tourists, but if you go beyond the café to the main restaurant here (or its lovely sun-soaked terrace) you’ll find some quintessentially up-to-date British cooking from the Peyton and Byrne team. After breakfast draws to a close (as healthy or hearty as you like), there’s an array of small plates to share if you’re feeling adventurous. Flamed Newlyn squid with wild garlic emulsion sits comfortably alongside grilled leeks and artichoke with shaved Berkswell cheese, or buttermilk fried chicken with hot sauce. Alternatively, go the three-course route and order a main of roast hake with braised chorizo and lentils, or a classic on-the-bone sirloin with béarnaise sauce, and finish with a blood-orange posset. There’s also a well put-together wine list if you’re in the mood – and the cocktails are terrific.
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