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Square Meal Review of Hush (bar) ?

The fit-out may be of its time – think parquet floors and Wegner-style chairs meet faux-industrial exposed ducting and ship’s lights – but the menu at the buzzy third branch of Hush is a throwback to the 1990s. Caesar salad (curiously served with poached egg and bacon) could precede tiger prawn risotto, Scottish rib-eye is cooked just right with crunchy frites in a dinky silver bucket, and lobster roll features plenty of succulent white meat on a bouncy brioche bun. Prices can soon mount up, but an all-day set menu keeps City workers and tourists sweet. Speaking of which, desserts are a sugar addict’s dream: Mars bar cheesecake or banana and Nutella pancake will see you safely through the post-prandial lull. Service gets mixed reviews, while the helpful wine list offers almost all selections by the glass. “Excellent breakfasts” too.

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