Hoi Polloi (bar) at Ace Hotel

Hoi Polloi
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Square Meal Review of Hoi Polloi (bar) at Ace Hotel ?

Hoi Polloi, the latest cool magnet from Messrs Flack and Waddington, owners of Bistrotheque and Shrimpy’s, has a cocktail bar in one corner for those not booking in to the Ace Hotel’s all-day brasserie. Well-executed Festival of Britain-esque decor suggests a dining room at a 1950s' holiday camp, while the cocktail menu references another strand of camp also prevalent during that decade – Polari, a rich, coded patois that appropriated many Yiddish terms to disguise homosexuality: ‘omi-polone’ (meaning an effeminate man) is a Buffalo Trace bourbon and port sour, while ‘riah shusher’ (a hairdresser) comes out as a rhubarb and vanilla Tapatio Blanco Tequila mule. Beers include two from Hackney microbrewers Beavertown, wines start at £4 a glass, and bar snacks range from chickpea fritters or pickled onion rings with salt cod paste to cheekily named ‘puffy scratchings’.

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