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Square Meal Review of The Hinds Head ?

Heston Blumenthal’s first pub venture is still going strong, the Michelin star safely retained. Compared to its outlandish cousin The Fat Duck a few doors away, The Hinds Head holds up as a classic British hostelry too: ancient oak pillars support low ceilings and creaking floors; deep-red studded leather abounds; and the bar feels like a local, despite the onslaught of gastro-pilgrims. The much-touted and satisfyingly runny Scotch egg is a must-order snack – an ideal accompaniment to perusing the menu of creatively rendered British standards. Salmon comes tea-smoked and paired with sour cream butter on soda bread; roast Norfolk Black turkey is stuffed with prunes and chestnuts; plaice is lifted by confit fennel and cider-butter sauce. It is claimed Heston invented triple-cooked chips here, and they’re exemplary. Add professional service, inventive cocktails and prices similar to countless other high-end country pubs, and the attraction of this polished operation is undeniable. 

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Heston Blumenthal

Former debt collector and karate black belt Heston Blumenthal has enjoyed an unpredictable career that’s taken him from Bray to Australia, from poster boy of ‘molecular gastronomy’ to the face of a national supermarket chain. The self-taught chef’s best known venture remains The Fat Duck (on sabbatical in Melbourne until autumn 2015), with Dinner at the Mandarin Oriental hot on its heels; he is also behind The Crown and Hind's Head in Bray, as well as the Perfectionists’ Café at Heathrow.

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