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Billed as a ‘posh café’, bistro and neighbourhood hub, The Henry Root is a cosy, warm and welcoming haunt that “artfully masters the space between wine bar, brasserie and restaurant”. The serious 200-bin wine list draws heavily on organic and biodynamic producers, while an eclectic, front-room vibe and approachable menu add to the venue’s all-round, all-day appeal. Perch at the bar with some charcuterie or settle in the dining room for ham croquettes with aïoli or duck liver parfait with balsamic onions followed by pan-fried hake with lemon, peas and crème fraîche risotto or five-spiced duck breast with pack choy, chilli and lotus root. Also be sure to leave room for dessert – perhaps apple and berry crumble with custard. One-course light lunches are a snip, and the place is dreamy when the concertina doors are opened onto Park Walk.
We were planning to go to 11 Park Walk, an Italian restaurant, part of the Zafferano group. When we arrived in Park Walk, just off Fulham High Street, the Italian place was two thirds empty and the clientele looked positively geriatric, while Henry Root just next to it drew us in with warm lighting and welcoming atmosphere. There we go, plans changed...
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Our visit to The Henry Root was a bit of a surprise visit. We were meant to be eating at Elleven Park Walk, an Italian restaurant (on 11 Park Walk in West Brompton), but a power failure at the restaurant meant that we turned up only to discover that there was no food to be had. The restaurant was nice enough to comp us a glass of champagne for the inconvenience, but thereafter there was no point staying. 11 Park Walk use to be the home of Aubergine, a Michelin-starred restaurant that closed in 2010. I had a disastrous meal at Aubergine in 2009 and it was just as well it closed as it seemed to be on its last legs....
More from A Girl Has to Eat - Restaurant Reviews & Food Guide »
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