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Primrose Hill was once nicknamed Greenberry Hill (a punning reference to the notorious hangings of Messrs Green, Berry and Hill back in the day) – hence the title of this eclectic, all-purpose
eatery. Flexibility is the name of the game as the kitchen goes on a globe-trotting tour taking in everything from viennoiserie for breakfast to all-day ‘traiteur’ plates of Ibérico Bellota ham,
salt beef sandwiches or pickled herring zakuski with beetroot, horseradish and sour cream. The full menu also stretches its legs, promising the likes of sea bream ceviche, miso-glazed aubergines or
breast of Creedy Carver chicken with imam bayaldi, ahead of tarte Tatin or raw and roast pineapple with pain d’épice, coconut and kaffir lime sorbet. The food is supported by a lively list of beers
and terroir-led wines that also goes walkabout in search of quality.
I went to the Greenberry Café with my girlfriends for a late Sunday lunch. The café was very easy to find, but somehow one of us managed to get lost and only got there an hour after our booking time! It was a very busy Sunday afternoon, thankfully the staff were very understanding and we were given the menu and some Japanese pickles while we waited. The menu could be a little overwhelming at first – there were bar snacks, breakfast, "traiteur", a la carte and desserts, all on one page. But each section was well thought out to cater for guests visiting at different times of the day. We were encouraged to mix and match...
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As a north Londoner, I felt a bit sad when I heard that Trojka in Primrose Hill was closing. It had real personality and an earthiness that's become rare in a part of London that has become self-consciously cute. Anyway, I hadn't thought about it much until I recently heard about Greenbury Café which has opened on the site. The name comes from the fact that Primrose Hill was once known as Greenberry Hill after the notorious hangings of Green, Berry and Hill who had plotted against Charles II.What made my ears prick up was the realisation that Morfudd Richards is the force behind the Greenbury Café. Over...
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