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With more than 125 years on the clock, Gow’s is a City diner of the redoubtable old school – although it still pulls in the crowds with its reputation for top-notch fish and a bustling,
business-friendly feel. Don’t come here expecting cutting-edge design – the downstairs dining room is as ‘retro’ as it gets (and not in an ironic way), but that’s the way the regulars like it. The
food is “exceedingly good”, according to one happy customer – a treasure trove of fishy pleasures taking in everything from Brixham crab and prawn terrine or Cognac-laced lobster bisque to
pan-fried skate wing with capers and brown butter or good old-fashioned fish pie with French beans. Lunchtime sees groaning platters of shellfish, as well as charcuterie and cheese boards, while
the compact wine list has plenty of fish-friendly selections.
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