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If you’ve never been to the first-floor restaurant at The French House – nor even heard of it – that’s because it’s one of Soho’s most jealously guarded secrets. As idiosyncratic as the boozer of
the same name (although ‘you’d never guess the sort of restaurant it is from the pub downstairs’), The French belongs squarely in the ‘Old Soho’ camp. It’s ‘cosy’ & ‘typically French’, with
white-clothed tables, bentwood chairs & a short, Gallic wine list. Staff are ‘helpful but not over-attentive’. The kitchen has hit higher peaks in the past, but the weekly changing menus still
show some original touches, such as Ecuadorian scallop ceviche & a dark chocolate crème brûlée, alongside the popular steaks with béarnaise. The pesky ‘half-pints only’ rule still prevails –
flower-filled pint glasses are one in the eye for anyone who’s ever attempted to order a full measure downstairs.
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