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Chef Michael Nadra has every reason to be confident, having reopened Fish Hook as a self-named, high-end restaurant with an all-round appeal beyond seafood. The intimate space is smart yet
easy-going, service is impeccable, & the manager has put together an eclectic 200-bin wine list with a strong showing under £30. Fixed-price menus offer competitive value, but the carte
promises a more elaborate choice. To start, yolk-yellow lasagnette of calf’s sweetbreads, foie gras & wild mushrooms with a rich truffle-infused veal jus was excellent and perfectly executed,
likewise a more delicate dish of seared yellowfin tuna with soft-shell crab tempura. After that, a three-part combo of pork tenderloin with choucroute, slow-roast belly with mash, and cheeks with
saffron tagliolini was a celebration of pig on a plate, while a creative dessert of rhubarb three ways (cold & luridly pink sorbet, cool pannacotta & hot crumble) provided an intriguingly
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