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Don’t be deterred by the distinctly unglamorous name – local lad Eric Paxman earned his stripes down under with celeb chef Bill Granger, and he’s imported some welcome Sydney sunshine to his
restaurant wedged into a terraced row of shops in a leafy Huddersfield suburb. Oak floors, stone walls and views of the flinty moors from the first-floor dining room belie a menu infused with
warmth and colour. Grilled sardines with chorizo and tomato stew is pure Catalonia, butternut squash tagine with chickpeas, red lentils and toasted flatbread evokes a North African summer, while a
dish of English venison haunch with dauphinoise potatoes and caramelised griottine cherries has echoes of more familiar climes. To finish, try almond frangipane and pear tart with cinnamon sauce
and pear purée accompanied by a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio from the decent wine list.
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