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Emile’s “still retains the enthusiasm of someone just starting a restaurant, even though it’s around for more than 25 years”, notes a fan of this long-serving Putney favourite. This is a very seemly local bolthole, where staff serve dinner with grace, and the oft-changing menu’s set pieces are well-loved by a contingent of mostly mature regulars. The ‘individually baked’ beef Wellington remains a speciality, although it keeps company with more modish dishes ranging from carpaccio of foie gras with heritage beetroot and walnut oil to blackened pork tenderloin with kohlrabi, mooli, sweet potato, Parmesan and rosemary gnocchi. Fish-eaters could choose roast hake with mussel, chickpea and smoked paprika chowder, while desserts remain staunchly traditional, with sticky toffee pudding and chocolate brownie heading the list. Terrific service and a “superb-value” wine list earn bonus points, as does Emile’s ‘collect and cook’ service for home entertaining.
Part of the Putney scene for 23 years, Emile’s clearly knows its market – and the list reflects that. Printed on tracing paper, it’s clear, concise (about 50 bins) and easy to follow, while the 16-bin Fine Wine list caters for those on a moderate splurge.
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